Even if you haven't had any prior experience
growing marijuana indoors, you can have a successful crop of
marijuana by following these simple directions. Growing a
marijuana plant involves only a few basic steps:
1) Buy the
cannabis seeds online
with companies that will make sure your seeds get to you safe
and secure. Alternatively, ask your friends to save you seeds out of any good
grass they may come across.
You'll find that lots of people
already have a seed collection of some sort and are willing to
part with a few prime seeds in exchange for some of the finished
2) Germinate the seeds. You can simply drop a
seed into moist soil and as long as it stays moist there is a
good chance the seed will germinate. Best method is to place a group of them between about six moist paper
towels, or in the pores of a moist sponge. Leave the towels or
sponge moist but not soaking wet. Some seeds will germinate in
24 hours while others may take several days or even a week.
3) Plant the sprouts. As soon as a seed
cracks open and begins to sprout, place it on some moist soil
and sprinkle a little soil over the top of it.
4) Supply the plants with light.
lights are the best. Hang the lights with two inches of the soil
and after the plants appear above the ground, continue to keep
the lights with two inches of the plants. It is as easy as that.
If you follow those four steps you will grow a marijuana plant.
To ensure prime quality and the highest yield in the shortest
time period, however, a few details are necessary.
Full grow lighting guide.
Note on Soil Your prime concern, after choosing high quality seeds, is
the soil. Use the best soil you can get. Scrimping on the soil
doesn't pay off in the long run. If you use unsterilized soil you
will almost certainly find parasites in it, probably after it is
too late to transplant your marijuana. You can find excellent soil
for sale at your local plant shop or nursery, K-Mart, Wal Mart,
and even some grocery stores. The soil you use should have these
properties for the best possible results:
It should drain well. That is, it should
have some sand in it and also some sponge rock or pearlite.
The ph should be between 6.5 and 7.5 since
marijuana does not do well in acidic soil. High acidity in soil
encourages the plant to be predominantly male, an undesirable
The soil should also contain humus for
retaining moisture and nutrients.
If you want to make your own soil mixture, you can use this
recipe: Mix two parts moss with one part sand and one part pearlite or sponge rock to each four gallons of soil. Test your
soil for ph with litmus paper or with a soil testing kit available
at most plant stores. To raise the ph of the soil, add 1/2 lb.
lime to 1 cubic foot of soil to raise the ph one point. If you
absolutely insist on using dirt you dug up from your driveway, you
must sterilize it by baking it in your oven for about an hour at
250 degrees. Be sure to moisten it thoroughly first and also
prepare yourself for a rapid evacuation of your kitchen because
that hot soil is going to stink. Now add to the mixture about one
tablespoon of fertilizer (like Rapid-Gro) per gallon gallon of
soil and blend it in thoroughly. Better yet, just skip the whole
process and spend a couple bucks on some soil.
After you have prepared your soil, you will have to come up
with some kind of container to plant in. The container should be
sterilized as well, especially if they have been used previously
for growing other plants. The size of the container has a great
deal to do with the rate of growth and overall size of the plant.
You should plan on transplanting your plant not more than one
time, since the process of transplanting can be a shock to the
plant and it will have to undergo a recovery period in which
growth is slowed or even stopped for a short while.
container you use should be no larger than six inches in diameter
and can be made of clay or plastic.
To transplant, simply prepare
the larger pot by filling it with soil and scooping out a little
hole about the size of the smaller pot that the plant is in. Turn
the plant upside down, pot and all, and tap the rim of the pot
sharply on a counter or the edge of the sink. The soil and root
ball should come out of the pot cleanly with the soil retaining
the shape of the pot and with no disturbances to the root ball.
Another method that can bypass the transplanting problem is using
a Jiffy-Pot. Jiffy pots are made of compressed peat moss and can
be planted right into moist soil where they decompose and allow
the passage of the root system through their walls. The second
container should have a volume of at least three gallons.
Marijuana doesn't like to have its roots bound or cramped for
space, so always be sure that the container you use will be deep
enough for your plant's root system.
It is very difficult to
transplant a five-foot marijuana tree, so plan ahead. It is going
to get bigger.
The small plants should be ready to transplant into
their permanent homes in about two weeks. Keep a close watch on
them after the first week or so and avoid root binding at all
costs since the plants never seem to do as well once they have
been stunted by the cramping of their roots.
Marijuana likes lots of food, but you can do
damage to the plants if you are too zealous. Some fertilizers can
burn a plant and damage its roots if used in too high a
Most commercial soil will have enough nutrients in
it to sustain the plant for about three weeks of growth so you
don't need to worry about feeding your plant until the end of the
The most important thing to remember is to introduce
the fertilizer concentration to the plant gradually. Start with a
fairly diluted fertilizer solution and gradually increase the
dosage. There are many different
hydroponic nutrients on the
market. Choose your weapon.
Most fertilizers cause a ph change in the
soil. Adding fertilizer to the soil almost always results in a
more acidic ph.
As time goes on, the amount of salts produced
by the breakdown of fertilizers in the soil causes the soil to
acidic and eventually the concentration of
these salts in the soil will stunt the plant and cause browning
out of the foliage. Also, as the plant gets older its roots become
less effective in bringing food to the leaves. To avoid the
accumulation of these salts in your soil and to ensure that your
plant is getting all of the food it needs you can begin leaf
feeding your plant at the age of about 1.5 months. Dissolve the
fertilizer in warm water and spray the mixture directly onto the
foliage. The leaves absorb the fertilizer into their veins. If you
want to continue to put fertilizer into the soil as well as leaf
feeding, be sure not to overdose your plants.
Remember to increase the amount of food your
plant receives gradually, they are growing.
Marijuana seems to be able to take as
much fertilizer as you want to give it as long as it is introduced
over a period of time. During the first three months or so,
fertilize your plants every few days.
As the rate of foliage
growth slows down in the plant's preparation for blooming and seed
production, the fertilizer intake of the plant should be slowed
down as well. Never fertilize the plant just before you are going
to harvest it since the fertilizer will encourage foliage
production and slow down resin production.
A word here about the
most organic of fertilizers: worm castings. As you may know, worms
are raised commercially for sale to gardeners. The breeders put
the worms in organic compost mixtures and while the worms are
reproducing they eat the organic matter and expel some of the best
marijuana food around. After the worms have eaten all the organic
matter in the compost, they are removed and sold and the remains
are then sold as worm castings. These castings are so rich that
you can grow marijuana in straight worm castings. This isn't
really necessary however, and it is somewhat impractical since the
castings are very expensive. If you can afford them you can,
however, blend them in with your soil and they will make a very
good organic fertilizer.
Without light, the plants cannot grow. In the
countries in which marijuana grows best, the sun is the source of
light. The amount of light and the length of the growing season in
these countries results in huge tree-like plants. In most parts of
North America, however, the sun is not generally intense enough
for long enough periods of time to produce the same size and
quality of plants that grow with ease in Latin America and other
The answer to the problem of lack of sun,
especially in the winter months, shortness of the growing season,
and other problems is to
grow indoor under simulated conditions.
The rule of thumb seems to be the more light, the better. In one
experiment we know of, eight eight-foot VHO Gro-Lux fixtures were
used over eight plants. The plants grew at an astonishing rate.
The lights had to be raised every day. There are many types of
artificial light and all of them do different things to your
plants. The common incandescent light bulb emits some of the
frequencies of light the plant can use, but it also emits a high
percentage of far red and infra-red light which cause the plant to
concentrate its growth on the stem. This results in the plant
stretching toward the light bulb until it becomes so tall and
spindly that it just weakly topples over.
Choose a Good Bulb Brand
Understanding the types of light. Different Bulb Choices.
The incandescent plant spot light which emits
higher amounts of red and blue light than the common light bulb.
It is an improvement, but has it drawbacks. it is hot, for
example, and cannot be placed close to the plants. Consequently,
the plant has to stretch upwards again and is in danger of
becoming elongated and falling over.
The red bands of light seem
to encourage stem growth which is not desirable in growing
marijuana. the idea is to encourage foliage growth for obvious
Gro-Lux lights are probably the most common
plant lights. In our experience with them, they have proven
themselves to be extremely effective. They range in size from one
to eight feet in length so you can set up a growing room in a
closet or a warehouse. There are two types of Gro-Lux lights: The
standard and the wide spectrum. They can be used in conjunction
with on another, but the wide spectrum lights are not sufficient
on their own.
Wide spectrum lights emit the same bands of light as the
standard but the standard emit higher concentrations of red and
blue bands that the plants need to grow. The wide spectrum lights
also emit infra-red, the effect of which on stem growth we have
already discussed. If you are planning to grow on a large scale,
you might be interested to know that the regular fluorescent lamps
and fixtures, the type that are used in commercial lighting, work
well when used along with standard Gro- Lux lights. These
commercial lights are called cool whites, and are the cheapest of
the fluorescent lights we have mentioned. They emit as much blue
light as the Gro-Lux standards and the blue light is what the
plants use in foliage growth.
Now we come to the question of intensity.
Both the standard and wide spectrum lamps come in three
intensities: regular output, high output, and very high output.
You can grow a nice crop of plants under the regular output lamps
and probably be quite satisfied with our results. The difference
in using the HO or VHO lamps is the time it takes to grow a crop.
Under a VHO lamp, the plants grow at a rate that is about three
times the rate at which they grow under the standard lamps. People
have been known to get a plant that is four feet tall in two
months under one of these lights. Under the VHO lights, one may
have to raise the lights every day which means a growth rate of
ate least two inches a day. The only drawback is the expense of
the VHO lamps and fixtures. The VHO lamps and fixtures are almost
twice the price of the standard. If you are interested in our
opinion, they are well worth it. Now that you have your lights up,
you might be curious about the amount of light to give you plants
per day. The maturation date of your plants is dependent on how
much light they receive per day. The longer the dark period per
day, the sooner the plant will bloom. Generally speaking, the less
dark per day the better during the first six months of the plant's
life. The older the plant is before it blooms and goes to seed,
the better the grass will be. After the plant is allowed to bloom,
its metabolic rate is slowed so that the plant's quality does not
increase with the age at the same rate it did before it bloomed.
The idea, then, is to let the plant get as old as possible before
allowing it to mature so that the potency will be a high as
possible at the time of harvest. One relatively sure way to keep
your plants from blooming until you are ready for them is to leave
the lights on all the time. Occasionally a plant will go ahead and
bloom anyway, but it is the exception rather than the rule. If
your plants receive 12 hours of light per day they will probably
mature in 2 to 2.5 months. If they get 16 hours of light per day
they will probably be blooming in 3.5 to 4 months. With 18 hours
of light per day, they will flower in 4.5 to 5 months. Its a good
idea to put your lights on a timer to ensure that the amount of
light received each day remains constant. A "vacation" timer,
normally used to make it look like you are home while you are
away, works nicely and can be found at most hardware or discount
Temperature and Humidity
The ideal temperature for the light hours is
68 to 78 degrees fahrenheit and for the dark hours there should be
about a 15 degree drop in temperature. The growing room should be
relatively dry if possible. What you want is a resinous coating on
the leaves and to get the plant to do this, you must convince it
that it needs the resinous coating on its leaves to protect itself
from drying out. In an extremely humid room, the plants develop
wide leaves and do not produce as much resin. You must take care
not to let the temperature in a dry room become too hot, however,
since the plant cannot assimilate water fast enough through its
roots and its foliage will begin to brown out.
The ideal temperature range is 70°F – 83°F
(21.1°C – 28.3°C)
ventilation in your growing room is
fairly important. The more plants you have in one room, the more
important good ventilation becomes. Plants breathe through their
leaves. The also rid themselves of poisons through their leaves.
If proper ventilation is not maintained, the pores of the leaves
will become clogged and the leaves will die. If there is a free
movement of air, the poisons can evaporate off the leaves and the
plant can breathe and remain healthy.
In a small closet where there are only a few
plants you can probably create enough air circulation just by
opening the door to look at them. Although it is possible to grow
healthy looking plants in poorly ventilated rooms, they would be
larger and healthier if they had a fresh supply of air coming in.
If you spend a lot of time in your growing room, your plants will
grow better because they will be using the carbon dioxide that you
are exhaling around them. It is sometimes quite difficult to get a
fresh supply of air in to your growing room because your room is
usually hidden away in a secret corner of your house, possibly in
the attic or basement. In this case, a fan will create some
movement of air. It will also stimulate your plants into growing a
healthier and sturdier stalk. Often times in an indoor
environment, the stems of plants fail to become rigid because they
don't have to cope with elements of wind and rain. To a degree,
though, this is an advantage because the plant puts most of its
energy into producing leaves and resin instead of stems.
Dehumidifying Your Growing Room
Cannabis that grows in a hot, dry climate
will have narrower leaves than cannabis grown in a humid
atmosphere. The reason is that in a dry atmosphere the plant can
respirate easier because the moisture on the leaves evaporates
faster. In a humid atmosphere, the moisture cannot evaporate as
fast. Consequently, the leaves have to be broader with more
surface area in order to expel the wastes that the plant put out.
Since the broad leaves produce less resin per leaf than the narrow
there will be more resin in an ounce of narrow leaves than in one
ounce of broad leaves. There may be more leaf mass in the broader
leafed plants, but most people are growing their own for quality
rather than quantity.
Since the resin in the marijuana plant serves
the purpose of keeping the leaves from drying out, there is more
apt to be a lot of resin produced in a dry room than in a humid
one. In the Sears catalog, dehumidifiers cost around $100.00 and
are therefore a bit impractical for the "hobby grower."